A side benefit of getting the goucho out is being able to get into the shell up front. I’ve been wanting to take care of the dent under the wing window for years. With the aid of Kip’s (AEROWOOD‘s) roller, it took about 5 minutes once the inside skin was off. I didn’t get a completely smooth skin, but it’s
reasonable, considering all the rock dings across the front of the Overlander. For those who think they can get it smooth by using a bucking bar and a hammer–don’t do it. The aluminum will thin and buckle. You can do a little bit of hammering if you use a semi-hard backing like a block of wood, but you have to be extremely careful not to expand the aluminum.
I also added some stringers in the center panel between the two benches. The skin there is plenty strong to support a table in the vertical, but flexes in a way that allows the far end of the table to wobble a good bit. The upper stringer will add the stiffness needed to get that under control.
The bottom stringer will provide support the extension of the table support. It’s a bit complicated (photos to follow), but this small stringer will allow me to cantilever the table, using what will be bed legs when the table is in the bed position.
A small technique note: Getting the frozen Vulkem tube out of the fridge and letting it thaw every time I needed a dab was getting old. So I went to a veternarian store and bought a bunch of small syringes. I loaded about 20 of them full of Vulkem and froze them. Even though the tip had a [very] small hole, the frozen Vulkem did not cure in the tip. It takes about 4 minutes to thaw out the small syringe under hot water and it’s ready to go. I used a small drop under the head of each bucked rivet when I installed the stringers. The tip can be cut to provide a larger bead, if needed.