Your Ideas

User registrations and comments have been blocked due to excessive spam. Contact me directly through, user name Zeppelinium.

9 thoughts on “Your Ideas

  1. Leo

    Hey zep! Leo from over at airforums. We are currently boondocking or way down to Austin via San Diego… where are you located in cali? Would love to check out your sovereign!!!

  2. Janice

    Can you please help guide me here. I have to replace a bedroom window, the larger one, on a 1969 Airstream. I’ve ordered the replacement window, but I haven’t really looked into the details as to what this will take to do this job. I am going to try to accomplish this on my own for my father, he is 79 and really wants this fixed. Can you guide me or if there is a link to maybe a video that I could watch to see how and where to get started on this project. I’ve looked around on line but haven’t been able to find on to help. I would appreciate any help that you could offer. I’ve tried the Airstream forums also, but had not luck. THANKS!!!

  3. Nick Wheeler

    Loved the aluminum cabinets, absolutely beautiful work.

    I too have a huge problem with road dust which I am not sure how to solve. In my case it is probably due to an absolutely horrible custom job with countless places for dust penetration under the trailer. I also suspect that having a rear door is a bad idea. Possibly roof vents create a problem as well.

    I did want to comment on your under sink installation. There is no reason for a trap on any of your sinks or shower unless possibly you don’t have a separate gray water system. I also recommend using simple flexible plastic tubing for all drain fittings. I’m not sure why the rv industry got off on the wrong foot with this one! Maybe if people use full hookups and leave all their flush valves open? But even then I think there are traps in most campground dump stations.

  4. Chuck

    Need your help. I had the local Airstream dealer in UT replace the dented top front panel on my 1973 31′ , insurance claim $ 2,600 later, and they didn’t replaced the letters! If they lost or tossed, can they be replaced? They actually pop rivited the stud holes on the A and M on the left and right side panel that weren’t replaced. Also, I want to “blend” the new with old, trying to sell, so don’t want to spend the dough to mirror polish the whole thing. Any suggestions appreciated.

  5. zach

    Just wanted to say thanks, I’m military and on the move every couple years in the states. Im thinking about getting a trailer but I want to do a lot of customization. I read your website top to bottom over the last couple days, lot’s of interesting ideas, greatly appreciated.

  6. DAve McCrostie


    Been following you for a few years now. Am into the rear end separation repair on my 72 Overlander. The C channel that I removed was attached only to the top of the plywood then riveted to the shell. The new C channel is a different design, in that it actually wraps the edge of the plywood , the idea of course being less water incursion. My challenge was; how the heck do I get this back into the trailer. Do I attach the plywood to the C channel, then install the entire thing? Do I attach the C channel to the shell, then force the plywood into it? This website showed me a different way to accomplish this. I did not realize you could cut the floor into three pieces then attache a key underneath the plywood. One question I have is; how’d you get the piece scabbed in (incorrect terminology) above the black tank? Thanks for the great site.


    1. Zep Post author

      You can only piece the floor together if you have access from underneath. You’d have to remove the black tank to do this. As I recall, you will have plenty of clearance above the tank for a scabbed in sister. I would be a little concerned about wrapping the C channel around the edge of the plywood. I’d have to think about it, but almost all good ideas relating to structural improvements have a tendency to wind up trapping water, not shedding it. What you really want is to make sure there is a good drainage path everywhere. It’s only a second consideration to prevent the water from getting in in the first place. Lots of times when you make something watertight, it’s not, but it turns out to be really good a trapping any water that gets in.

      The C channel on top of the plywood may not seem like the best idea, but it allows you to remove inner or outer skins and do repairs easily (comparatively), particularly if you have to remove a length of the C channel itself.

  7. Raphael Wolfe

    Hey Zep,
    First of all I’d like to say how helpful your website is. It has helped me tremendously. I recently bought a 29′ 1974 ambassador that was gutted. I’m in the process of restoring it. I’m now up to the cabinets and was wondering if you had or know where I could get dimensions of the original cabinets? I’d like to use them as a guide.
    Thanks in advance Raphael

  8. Jammie Palmer

    Help huge leak when I’m hooked up to city water, 77 31′sovereign. Bad timing on winterizing.

    Thanks jp

Comments are closed.